THE FABIA CLUB

k_ajay

Hi Members,

I've been away for a while and during this time, I've spent a lot of my time understanding what Car Detailing is all about and understanding it's nuances and methods.

I've learnt a fair bit now and have been trying to detail my car every weekend [oh! it's a laborious process, don't ask] and now I'm certain of the knowledge I have, which I'm going to share with you folks and field any questions you have.

Tune in, if you're keen to know how to correct your car's paint, or know what needs to be done to rectify small/insignificant damages or how to keep your car in better than showroom condition. Wink

** Watch this space **

aK
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

k_ajay

Before you begin reading, please note that I'll be putting down 2 parts to the 'how to detail a Fabia' series. This part will deal with what the surface defects are and what needs to be done to first stop damage to the car's surface [and interiors].

Modern day car's, since the late eighty's [unless I'm way off the mark] have 3 layers of coats on the metal surface of your car. In the cronological order, they are the primer, base coat [paint] and the Clear coat on the top. Older automotives [pre-1980s] used to come with only a primer and the base coat. These vehicles are called to sport 'single stage paints'. There is NO clear coats on the vehicles with single stage paints. The surface is completed with just the base automotive paint.

Modern Clear Coated Paint Surfaces

You can imagine single stage paints without the clear coat.

Clear coats were pressed into service on automotive paints since they provide good UV protection to the metal and the paint surface below it. It also gives hard-as-rock protection to the paint that is on your car. A clear coat, as it mentions, is a transparent coating. Clear coats are also of two varities; I'm not sure yet what the term for clear coats used on normal cars are called, but the clear coat on german vehicles like the Mercedes Benz, BMW, Audi etc. all sport what is called the 'Ceramic' clear coat. The chemical and structural attributes of these coats are far superior and stronger than the normal clear coated and much cost effective vehicles. This is also why surface paint correction takes more effort and pain [yeah, no kidding] on ceramic clear coats than normal clear coats.

Well, now that we're past the basic understanding of what is on your car's bare metal, let's get down to understanding what causes degradation of the car's surface and what we could do [in an environmentally difficult country like ours] do keep the paint and surface is good condition.

Firstly, you should understand and come to terms with the fact that your car already has surface defects when it's being handed over to you, right at the showroom. Shocking? Don't trust me? Well, the next time someone you know is taking delivery of a new car, go along with him/her and check the number of fine hairline scratches and swirls that adorn the entire of the car. Yes, swirl marks and scratches [fine, hair line ones] ARE also surface defects.

Example of Surface Defects on Clear Coated cars

Try this yourself! In the day time, under direct sunlight, position yourself to see the sun on the car's bonnet, at an angle. You will see lots of very fine surface scratches, running in circles. Like this, below. These are called swirls. Where they do not seem to show up together, they will appear randomly and isolated, and are nothing but fine hair line scratches. How did they appear? Well, blame the showroom that delivered the car to you. And partly also on yourself or the gent that you've appointed to wash your car.

Example of Swirls

If you are serious about maintaining your car's finish without surface marring and scratches, as a first step, get rid of the gent that washes your car. Everyday, they instate and keep adding to the swirls and scratches on your car. Not purposely, but without knowledge or how or why they happen. They might not even know these terms in the first place.

At this point, I can see some folks sighing and saying, "This is India. You cannot get rid of dust and dirt to avoid these scratches or swirls". And what after I get rid of the washing gent? I wash myself? Baaah!!" Yes, this is very true and you're not wrong with what you're saying. So, at this point, I would politely urge such folks who are of this opinion, to get off this article and continue with anything else you were doing. No, I don't mean to offend, but your thought is right and this article is NOT for you. This article is purely for car freaks and car crazy folks, such as myself.

For individuals who pride their car and are almost in love with it, read on. The benefits of maintaining a great looking car are many. Firstly, think from the perspective of re-sale. Your car cannot and WILL NOT come back to it's original glory and lusture suddenly on the day you want to sell it off. And a large number of people these days, don't plan to keep their cars for 5 yrs, or 8 yrs, or X years. Most, including myself, buy it with an idea in mind to retain the car for X number of years, but various factors such as sudden relocation due to movement of job, emergencies which require huge wads of cash, a great deal or tempting offer on a new car you've been monitoring for ages, or such situations comes along, you'll be pressed into selling your car almost immediately, than wait to get the car to a great looking state. In some cases, when you have a great looking car, inside and out, the temptation to sell it off is also much lesser and that itself is a good incentive to put efforts into maintain your car's condition.

Is my Fabia swirl and scratch free? Hell No!! Did I appoint someone to wash my car? Never!! Then how do I have swirls and scratches? This is why I mentioned above that these defects can also be attributed to us, apart from the wash guy's faults. You should know how to properly, wash, dry and maintain your car and this is what I'm going to try and help you with, with the knowledge I have gained [from detailing experts and practicing enthusiasts].

In any case, some physical effort in maintaining your car is NOT going to harm you. Well, maybe a little financially [lol, we'll get to that soon], but surely nothing that will trouble you in the long run. Yes, it also has an added advantage of keeping yourself physically fit [and I'm yet to figure this happening for me]. [I can imagine Robin almost smirking now].

So, enough with the gyan. What do we do???

How to maintain a new car's finish. Coming up soon!!
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

admin · Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:00 am Post subject:

Simply Awesome!

Is it possible to get some gyan on the teflon coats (and other such stuff). I am not a fan of teflon coat.

I was handed over the car with a small dent, which I noticed only after months of using it. My car is still pretty much devoid of swirls, one will have to seriously strain his eyes to point out. That is because I wash it my self and then it is waxed after washing (as off today it is more than 15 days since I cleaned my car Smile

).

Hairline scratches - my car has it's share.
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Robin

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:31 am Post subject:

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:47 pm Post subject: Car Washing - Part I

PART 1

If you have just recently bought a new Fabia, this part of the article is mainly for YOU, dear member. As a first step, this article requests you not to put a washing assistant to attend to your car, unless instilling swirls and scratches immediately is the plan.

If it is impossible for you to wash your car yourself, then ensure your washing assistant is taught/educated well on how the car should be washed and maintained. If this person whose service you're planning to use, is a common resource [washes several cars, for example, in an apartment complex], then forget about it. Any efforts is not going to materialize in the person changing his ways for your car. For them, time is money and more cars = more money.

On a new car, there should be no swirls and scratches. But, due to the ways our cars are stocked by the dealers and washed by their sales center before they're handed over to you, you can be quite sure your paint surface is guaranteed to be marred, before you touch your car's keys for the first time.

Ok. Let's focus on what you can do [or educate your washing assistant, to do].

1. Washing the car.

This is the one of the most important process of the detailing step. Washing a vechile is to remove surface level dust, dirt and grime. And the objective should be to remove them without damaging the paint any further than what it has already gone through.

These are the important things one will need, to wash a vehicle safely without instilling any more scratches or swirls..

a. 2 buckets [at least 10 litre capacity each]
b. Good wash media [microfibre cloth, wash mitt, etc].
c. Quality ph neutral car wash shampoo
d. Few quality [larger the size, the better] microfibre towels/cloth.
e. Hose pipe connected to a running water source [if feasible]

2. The Washing Technique

Most people I have seen wash a car with a single bucket. This is Wrong and is very bad for the car's surface [unless, you're car is already super smooth without any surface dust and you are in fact using a waterless wash system product]. What happens when you use a single bucket is that the dirt and grime from the car transfers into the bucket, in which you have your soap solution. What you're effectively doing is that you're re-introducing dirt and dust onto the surface of your car, thereby bringing it into the wash media [cloth, microfibre pad, wash mitt, etc] and potentially further inducing scratches and swirls on your car. Not Good!!
I used to do this too, on my 1st car and a good part of the 1st year on the ownership of my Fabia. Once I learnt about the two bucket method, I have been continuously washing by this method only.

What you can do hence forth, is use what is called in the detailing world, as the Two Bucket wash method. It is simple and helps a great deal to 'reduce' the amount of dirt, dust and grime you carry back onto the surface of your car.

In bucket 1, you fill in clean water. Inside bucket 2, you put in the car wash shampoo [in the appropriate quantity as described in the product's instructions on the bottle] and add water to it. If you spray a steady jet of water, it will foam and create suds to the soapy water.

Now, it would be very useful if you have a garden hose pipe and a garden sprayer nozzle attached to the garden hose pipe on one end. The other end of this hose pipe should be attached to a water source with continuous flow.

If you have this garden hose pipe and water source set up, then spray wash the entire car down, top down ending with the wheels and also the wheel wells. IF you don't have a hose pipe setup, then simply take a bucket full of water and spray the car down with water, using a mug. Don't put too much pressure and thrash the water on the car. Just forceful enough for the stream of water to move and remove surface dust.

Once you have washed the car down with clean water, now you can start washing the car with the car wash shampoo solution you've prepared. For ensuring your washing method is effective and safe, use a good wash media [I will touch upon this in the next paragraph]*.

When washing the car, do one body panel at a time. Dip the wash media into the soap solution and gently rub-wash a part of the body panel you have selected. For example, if you are starting with your Fabia's bonnet, split the bonnet into 3 parts and wash the 1st part.

Do not rub hard or work your washing action in circles. Instead, gently move the wash media which is holding the soap solution on the bonnet vertically [on the part you have selected]. If you are standing horizontally to your car's bonnet [by the side of either fender], then you'll be moving the wash media horizontally, on the part of the bonnet you've chosen to wash first. Make 2-3 passes of the entire part and inspect the surface. if any more dirt or grime is stuck on the surface, then gently agitate them with the wash media, by adding a little more of the soap solution, if required.

Once a part of the body panel you've started on is completed, move on to the next. STOP!! Now before you proceed to dip the wash media into the soap solution again, remember and recollect that you have another clean water bucket nearby.. Well, this is used for you to 'rub and clean' the wash media from the soap and dirt already in it, before you can dip it into the soap solution again. There simply is no benefit from dipping the wash media into the soap again and proceeding to wash another part of the panel. You're only carrying forward the dirt to work on another panel. So before you proceed, gently agitate the wash media in the fresh water bucket, remove it out of the bucket and then gently squeeze [don't wring] the wash media away from the fresh water bucket. At least now, your wash media is definitely not as dirty as it was when you finished the 1st part of your selected panel.

Go ahead and wash the entire car this way, washing one panel/panel part at a time and by dipping the wash media in the fresh water, quickly cleaning it and then soaking it in soap solution. If the bucket which started out as the fresh water bucket has gotten too contaminated by the soap and dirt, then pour it out, wash that bucket and fill it up with fresh water again. It's that easy.

Since washing the tyres and the wheel well is the most messiest part [splatter and sling from the dirty wheels and wheel wells is common], it is advised by most detailing experts, to complete washing the wheel wells and tyres first, before you go to work on the body. This makes much sense to me and this is what I follow myself.\

A simple photo to show you what the 2 bucket method's tools look like

NOTE: If anyone needs the grit guards or washing mitts, they're available at www.bringingbest.com for a limited time.

** To be continued **
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

admin · Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:33 am Post subject:

I had my car washed by a regular washing guy in the apartment a couple of times and I repent it (I hadn't even asked him to clean my car, it was for my wife's car).

The other day I took the car in the bright sun looking for swirls. They are there , very light though. You were right Smile

.
_________________
Robin

anjaneya · Newbie Joined: 27 Oct 2011 Posts: 19 Location: Pune

Hey Just got my new Fabia less than 10 day's back! Definitely going to follow the 2 Bucket method Smile

I just have to find a good quality PH Netural Car wash shampoo...

anjaneya · Newbie Joined: 27 Oct 2011 Posts: 19 Location: Pune

I got Skoda Car wash shampoo as a part of accesories deal
and bought Skoda Car Wax. Any Idea about the qualty? is it PH Neutral?
_________________
anjanaya_at_gmail_dot_com

k_ajay · Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:55 pm Post subject:

sraye · Newbie Joined: 27 Oct 2011 Posts: 7 Location: Mumbai

Great Article. Plan to implement this over the weekend.
I also recently purchased the Formula1 Wash and Wax solution. It is supposed to be a shampoo, which also waxes the car while washing. Not sure how this works, but will be trying it tomorrow.

Any feedback/advice about this product?

Thanks
Saurabh

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:02 pm Post subject:

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:41 pm Post subject: Drying your Car - Part 2

PART 2

Drying your Car

Ok, now we have washed the car with the 2 bucket method. And you think you've done a good job. But let me remind you, this is only the beginning and the hard labour doesn't stop with this Very Happy

Even drying the car needs technique. You could ruin all the hard work away by using some cheapo 'banian' cloth or blue/yellow rags you get in the road. I should have mentioned this much earlier to writing the article parts, but if I haven't then I'm making it clear now. You will NEED to INVEST in some good quality Microfiber towels/cloth pieces.

So, without digressing further, let's look at the car drying technique.

Before going into Drying, please note the Most Important points.

1. If you've washed the car in the sun, it's a big crime in car detailing. The sun is going to quickly make the water atop your car's surface Evaporate, leaving back what is called 'water spots' or 'mineral etching' on the surface of the car [both paint and on glass]. NEVER wash your car in direct Sunlight. Always ensure there is shade or you're away from direct sunlight, when washing your car [or whatever the vehicle may be].

If you don't have any alternative space to wash your car other than in direct sunlight, then only wash your car, panel by panel. This way, you will have more control over not letting the soap solution or water evaporate from the surface [which will then cause 'water spotting' or 'mineral etching'].

2. You must dry the car as soon as you've finished washing. Allowing water to rest on the car or evaporate [ultimately, it will] WILL leave back water spot marks on the paint surface as well as glass.

3. If you allow too much time between finishing of washing and drying your, you're causing micro marring back into the paint. Objective DEFEATED. In India, there is NO WAY one can escape dust. Even if you're in a basement, I can bet you will find dust there as well. Once you've let dust settle on the car between finishing washing your car and before you're ready to dry it, then the fine dust particles are going to settle on the water and induce 'micro marring', otherwise known as fine hairline scratches, by rubbing them back into the paint. AVOID.

4. Do Not use a 'banian' [vest] cloth or the blue/yellow cloth you find at traffic signals or petty auto shops. They are NO GOOD for your car's paint [they may be wallet friendly, I agree].

Once you've completely washed the car, use a good quality microfiber to first draw and suck most of the water off the surface of the car. For this, you can use a standard microfiber [good quality]. Here, we are not trying to MOVE or RUB the microfiber cloth over the paint surface. You're simply going to DAB the microfiber towel on the water parts and suck/lift it off the paint/glass surface.

Once you've removed surface water by the dabbing/sucking off approach, you need to now wipe the car off the water residue/moisture that is still there on the surface of your car. Now, for wiping the residual water/moisture off the car surface, you should use a 'Waffle Weave' Microfiber towel. This towel's speciality is that it is specifically made to absorb moisture/water and it can hold upto 7 times it's own weight. That's how much water it can hold, before it needs to be wrung off [to drain the water it is holding]. Waffle weave towel had a different microfiber texture to it than an ordinary Microfiber towel.

Before you begin wiping the car's surface, you need to ensure AGAIN that there has not been any dust settling on the surface you're going to wipe. As it's possible and if you find dust on the panel you want to wipe, you will need to clear the dust off with a mug or water [and dab the water off again with a normal microfiber towel].

Using a waffle weave towel, slowly wipe each panel by panel. A Waffle Weave towel is normally a big one [standard ones I've seen are 26inches by 20 inches], so you can fold this towel into 8 parts. Dividing the towel into parts will expose only one side of the towel to the car's surface moisture, thereby saving the fresh parts to wipe down the entire of the car. I hope you're getting what I'm trying to say.

So, this way, by ensuring the panel you're wiping down is dust free, wipe down the residual water/moisture from the entire car and now, once you're done with this process, you're car should be completely free of water.

Remember to open the doors and clean/wipe the door jambs, door sills etc. Car cleaning/detailing is a holistic process, so don't leave any parts still exposed to dirt. It will remain an eye-sore in an otherwise beautiful looking car Wink

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A close look at Waffle Weave towel structure & sample Waffle Weave microfiber towel pictures

1.

2.

One of the brands from which you can buy a waffle weave towel - Meguiar's. Product name: Water Magnet. This is available in India but currently limited to professional detailers.

** To be continued **
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

k_ajay · Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 12:54 am Post subject: Claying your Car - Part 3

In my previous two post, I'd written about how to wash your car using the 2 bucket method and how to dry your car's surface, post washing. I have consciously tried to avoid mentioning any brand names so that I'm not mistaken to be favouring any particular brand. If you ask me about what works best, I can suggest based on my experience. Otherwise, let's head to the part where we need to know what to do drying your car.

PART 3A

Claying the Car

Washing the car was the first step to removing surface dust and lose dirt. Once you have done this, you've only completed the first step in a viscious cycle that is called car detailing [hahaha!! just kidding about the viscious part]. As mentioned in my opening post, there are bonded contaminants on your car's paint surface, which will not come off easily by just washing the car.

For removing mild bonded contaminants, you need to go beyond washing the car. You need to CLAY your car. Claying is a process done by ALL professional car detailers and almost all car care enthusiasts. The clay is not the one used you find in toy stores or in your child's play box. This is automotive grade clay used only on automobiles, with an intent to remove contaminant's from the subject's surface. Good news is, we can now get this clay easily in India. At the end of this article, I will share links to where you can source them from.

Claying the car is a simple process but can be a painful one. As a ball park, I take almost between 3-4 hours for claying the entire body of my Fabia [including alloy wheels]. There is elbow grease required to clay your car and there is no short cut to this. That's why, I call it a painful process but as you may have already noticed by now, car care by itself is a painful process [what, washing your car didn't make your shoulders ache???]

You need 3 products to be able to clay any car. They are:
1. Good grade clay [smooth surface clay].
2. Clay lubricant
3. Microfiber towels [at least 3-5 good quality microfiber towels]

Clay as is, is not good to put on your car's paint or glass as it will tend to get stuck on to the body panel. To make the automotive clay effective, you need to apply squirts or spray shots of lubricant on the panel you want to clay, so that you will end up 'lubricating' the panel to the extent that the clay can work its magic on the car surface, instead of getting stuck to the panel.

How to Clay

Before you clay any body part, ensure that the panel you're going to work on is absolutely clean and washed off all soap [from the washing process]. You can either start after the car body has been dried off washing, or even after washing the car and before drying it [when the car is still wet from the final washing].

Once again, as with washing and drying, you will need to clay the car also, one body panel at a time. Once you've selected the panel you want to clay, you need to spray the clay lube on the panel and gently rub the clay bar either in a forward and backward movement [horizontal] or in a up and down movement [vertical]. Whichever movement you choose, be consistent and stick with it. When you start claying, the clay bar could be grabby [as in, you will find the clay bar being stuck at certain places] and not move smoothly. This is either because there are more contaminants in that part of the panel or that there is not enough clay lube.

Keep spraying small amounts of clay lube continuously as you clay the paint panels. And DON'T forget to clay the glass too. YES!! You can clay the glass too. In fact, you should clay the glass too. And then, be spell bound when you drive and see the difference [of driving when you're windshield has been clayed]. You will be amused to think you're windshield is not there anymore on the car. Wink

Try this and let me know if it isn't so..

Anyway. So, once you have made 4-5 passes with the clay bar, spraying the clay lube underneath it, for every part/portion of the panel, check if you find the clay bar being grabby any more. This means that if you find the clay bar moving smoothly and without being stuck anywhere, that means that most of the contaminants from that panel or part of the panel have been removed by the claying process.

A pass means when you move the clay bar on the panel, either in a horizontal movement or vertical movement, twice [2 times up and down or 2 times left to right, is one pass].

Also, as you clay a panel and finish it, use the microfiber towel you have in hand [a FRESH one. Do Not re-use the ones you've used to wash or wipe your car]. The clay lube or quick detailer that you use as the clay lube, should not be left to dry on the paint/glass surface, so as soon as you've finished claying a part of your panel, immediately wipe that part of panel off the clay lube.

Once the contaminants from the panel you're claying has become smooth, you will find the clay bar glide easily and in smooth manner [without being grabby or being stuck to the panel]. But do not mistake the clay bar being stuck or grabby due to lack of sufficient clay lubrication, as a sign of bonded contaminants still being present on the paint/glass panel surface.

I am sharing a link for a video which explains how claying is to be done, for those that are not able to understand what I've tried to convey via words. Understand that I might not have written with a lot of clarity or intricate detail as I'm now so used to these processes, but for folks who are new to claying, I recommend you see the video before you actually clay your car.

I hope this article of how to clay your car [paint and glass] was helpful, clear, lucid and easy enough for you to understand and encouraging to give this excellent process a try.

Once you've completed claying and microfiber towel wiping the entire car, just run your 'DRY' hand over the car's surface and feel how silky smooth your car's paint actually was. And then you can stand back and wonder how India's environment actually 'screws' with your car's surface. Laughing

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Video demonstration of how to use a clay bar on a car

[url] http://youtu.be/VD9Qc84vSyY [/url]

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In my next post, i will share links for different types of automotive clay and clay lube(s) that can be used / available in India.

** To be continued **
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

k_ajay · Last edited by k_ajay on Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:02 pm; edited 1 time in total

CLAY BARS AND CLAY LUBRICANTS

I'm sharing links of a particular brand's clay products and also clay lubes of various brands. Some of these are available in India and some aren't yet.

Clay Bars

1. Meguiar's Surface Clay Kit - This is the standard consumer grade automotive clay and any car care enthusiast can use it.

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g1016-smooth-surfacereg-clay-kit/

2. Meguiar's Detailing Clay [Mild] - This clay is a little more aggressive in it's work compared to the Surface clay product. It would work better at the hands of an experienced detailing enthusiast.

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/c2000-detailing-clay-(mild)

3. Meguiar's Detailing Clay [Aggressive] - This clay is the most aggressive in removing all bonded contaminants is mostly used by 'professional' detailers.

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/c2100-detailing-clay-(aggressive)

4. Mother's California Gold Clay Bar System - This is another standard consumer grade automotive clay and any car care enthusiast can use it.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/07240.html

Clay Lubricants

1. Meguiar's Quick Detailer - This is a quick detailer* product which is also commonly used as a clay lubricant [can be used with any brand's automotive clay].

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a3316-quik-detailerreg-16oz/

2. Mother's California Gold Showtime Instant Detailer - This is also a quick detailer* product which is also sold/used as a clay lubricant [can be used with any grade of automotive clay].

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/08224.html

3. Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - Well, this is not exactly a clay lubricant but it is a multipurpose product and one of it's 4 avatars is acting as a clay lubricant [when diluted with normal water].

http://www.optimumcarcare.com/onrwns.php

The following products are available in India.

1. Meguiar's Clay bars [entire surface clay kit may not be available]
2. Mother's Clay bars and Clay kit.
3. Meguiar's Quik Detailer [clay lube]
4. Mother's California Gold Showtime Instant Detailer [clay lube]
5. ONR [Optimum No Rinse].

Please check the following websites from where you can source/buy these world class products.

www.bringingbest.com [for clay bars, microfiber towels, car detailing products, etc].
www.auto-mall.in [for clay bars kit, ONR, and other car care products]
www.autofresh.in [for lots of car care products, enthusiast and professional]

You can also visit 3M Car Care centers in your city, to buy the following:
a. Meguiar's Quik detailer
b. Meguiar's microfiber wash mitt
c. 3M yellow microfiber towel [good for buffing off wax and sealants].
Note: There are 2- 3M Car Care Center in Bangalore; one in HSR Layout and one in Sanjay Nagar [Dollar's colony]. For other cities, someone else from another city can share their finding.

* - I will be sharing in my upcoming articles what a quick detailer is. Please keep watch.

Disclaimer: I am not biased or favourable to any one brand. I am also currently not affiliated with any of the websites I've recommended. These are some of the good [and only] retailers from whom you can buy a range of car care products in India.
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

orionph05 · Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:19 am Post subject:

Has any one done Underbody treatment / Anti rust coating for their Fabia.
Is there any significant advantages given that the underbody is already covered 70 % , is there any reduction in Noise due to this treatment.
_________________
Rgds
Pravin
Bangalore

fabia652@gmail.com · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:05 pm Post subject: Polish

Hi,

I would like to know what is the difference between wax polish and this one (Clay), i use wax polish and rub the car monthly.

Now this is what i should buy right:
1) clay spray
2)Clay bar
3) micron cloth

Please let me know if i have missed anything:
http://www.auto-mall.in/products.html
Rs1250 - as per website

Please let me know if i buy the product in above link should be enough or should i buy anything else more.

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:18 pm Post subject: Re: Polish

fabia652@gmail.com · Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:37 am Post subject:

Hi,

Thanks for the advice, I am using Waxpol(Wax) rubbing component for the body and for bumper and dashboard there is one spray known as 'Son of a Gun' from 'STP'. and for windscreen i use 'RainX' which is again from STP but i do not use this much.

Regards
Santosh

k_ajay · Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:08 pm Post subject:

Hi Santosh,

Waxpol is an excellent Indian product. But can you take a picture of this product you have? A rubbing compound is NOT a polish and should NOT be used on the car, unless one knows how to use it properly/professionally. In case you weren't aware, a rubbing compound containts abrasives and 'eats' into the clear coat and paint.

If you statement of 'rubbing component' is not rubbinb 'compound' then let's relax. Nothing to worry Smile

STP Sun of a Gun is a good product but has high content of silicon. Its best to avoid Silicon as it makes the surface age fast and also causes dullness of original color/texture. If possible, you can look to replace STP Son of a Gun with another 'non silicon' based interior dressing.

We all have reason to cheer as Meguiar's, one of the world's leading surface car care brand is now officially and easily available in India. They will soon be available to buy from www.meguiars.co.in.

RainX is good. If you want alternatives, look at this brand: http://www.autofresh.in/index.php/brands/glass-science.html

Cheers,
aK
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

fabia652@gmail.com · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:16 am Post subject: