THE FABIA CLUB

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:25 pm Post subject:

^^ You're welcome, Santosh.
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

memphes.d · Newbie Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Posts: 9 Location: Bangalore

K_ajay,

Well Well written. Eagerly waiting for your posts on paint sealant, followed by waxing.

I agree, detailing takes more patience than one can imagine. But, the end-result is that DIY detailing cuts the cost by 1/5th in comparison to going to a professional detailer like 3M.

For environments like India, detailing must be carried out once a quarter, and visiting a professional detailer once a quarter is definitely not cost effective!
_________________
The speedway ends at the cemetery.

k_ajay · Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:38 am Post subject:

k_ajay · Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:35 pm Post subject: Cleaning your Car - Part 3B

In my previous post 'Claying your Car - Part 3', I've covered car surface detailing until the step of claying the car. In the below article, I'm going to list and detail steps to take between claying the car and preparing it for paint correction/polish.

PART 3B

Once your car has been clayed, most of the surface contaminants and bonded dirt would have come off the car. Still, it cannot be said that the paint surface is 100% dirt/contaminant free. But that's ok..

There are some contaminants that 'might not' come off by the process of claying. For ex: road tar, tree sap, bird dropping, etc. Road tar is a well acknowledged problem in India. If you don't believe it, go outside tomorrow morning to notice small pin-point sized road tar spots on the lower part of your doors, on the alloys, underbelly, etc.. More often than not, the road tar is difficult to remove from use of shampoo or clay.

But still, the Tar needs to be removed for that perfectly detailed car, right? Two things that can remove tar 100%.

1. Diesel
2. Tar removal product

1. Yes. Diesel removes tar effectively and a little gentle scrubbing post dabbing the tar spot with diesel, will ensure 100% removal. Buuutttt, the problem is that diesel is Not Good for the clear coat of your car's paint. Diesel can eat into the clear coat [if too much diesel is used]. Using diesel to remove tar spots on your alloys might be fine, but it's best to avoid using it on the car body.

2. Tar removal product. There are some paint safe/clear coat safe tar removal products available in India and outside. These products remove tar effectively and without a trace. Not much scrubbing is required either. These are simple SOWO products. [SOWO - Spray On, Wipe Off].

Some Tar removal products I'm aware of:
1. TarX by Carpro - http://www.bringingbest.com/Coming_Soon__.html [available in India from the link provided. Contact the seller].
2. Gold Class Bug & Tar remover by Meguiar's - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/meguiars-gold-class-bug-tar-remover/prod_105.html
3. Intensive Tar remover by Autoglym - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/autoglym-intensive-tar-remover/prod_749.html

TarX is now available in India via www.bringingbest.com in 50ml bottle size.
Meguiar's, as I've said earlier, is a world renowned car care brand and is also officially now available in India via www.meguiars.co.in.

Other products can be sourced from outside India, if you're interested.

Let's move on now to Paint Correction [if required].

** To be continued **
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:59 am Post subject: Cleaning your Car - Part 4A

PART 4A

We've now come to what I consider the most important part of car surface detailing [if such a treatment is required]. It is the process of removing all those hair line scratches, swirl marks and paint imperfections. It is to bring back that mirror reflection shine and a factory paint finish on the car [notice how I did not mention a showroom finish. That's because showroom finish itself is abused].

At the time of reading this particular article/post, I'm assuming you'll be familiar with or understand what swirls are and how they are caused. Paint correction is 'quite' the same process, only performed more carefully to 'right a wrong'. What I mean by this and what you should understand very well, is that by paint correction, what you're effectively doing is ERODING the paint [molecules] that is immediately surrounding the swirl or the hair line scratch.
Yes. by ERODING the paint next to the swirl or the hair line scratch, you're leveling the area of paint around the swirl or hair line scratch, thereby making that swirl or hl scratch not appear or be visible anymore. I hope you understand this and I've tried to write this in the most basic of ways to put across what I know, but if what I've written doesn't make sense [which is possible], please Do Not hesitate to ask. It's important you understand what you're doing when you're performing paint correction, otherwise you could be Eroding a lot of clear coat off the car's body.

There are two ways to do paint correction. By hand and by tool. As far as my own experience goes and through acquired knowledge, I can safely state that paint correction by hand is PITA [pain in the ...]. It's quite tough going as far as calling it impossible [unless you have superman strength, muscles that never tire and looottssss of time]. Nonetheless, it does produce results when done with utmost determination and with the right products.

Paint correction by tool, is the right way and the smartest way to go about the job. It yields results much faster, to perfection and most importantly, the correction results achieved are uniform and to high quality [paint correction by hand cannot claim the same]. The only downside to paint correction by tool is in investing in a tool and the consumables related to the tool.

Paint Correction by Hand

Even though the correction is by hand, you'll need these consumables to do the job.

1. Proper Foam applicators
2. Rubbing compound
3. Cleaner/Finishing polish
4. Buffing Microfiber towel/cloth
5. Good quality automotive masking tape

The rubbing compound is the product/solution you use, to erode that paint/clear coat surrounding the swirl or scratch you want gone. From the text above, you would have understood that the compound eats into your clear coat during the correction process, so it's important you note that A LITTLE PRODUCT GOES A LONG WAY. Don't Over Apply the product thinking it's a good thing. It isn't. Please understand this.

The Cleaner/finishing polish is the product/solution you need to use, AFTER using the rubbing compound. The reason is 'sometimes', there will be very minute/marginal scratches left behind After the compounding job. It's also used to prodiuce a rich, deep gloss to the paint [as a final step of the correction process]. The use of the cleaner/finishing polish is to ensure a final swirl and light defects free paint surface.

Application. Since it's paint correction by hand, you do need an applicator to apply the product/solutions, right? Also, instead of using just any applicator, the results would be close to desired, if the right applicators are used for the job. You'll learn more about the right applicator to be used, in the product links. But if you still have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me.

PRODUCTS

1. Applicators

a. CCS Euro Foam applicator pads: These are simply the best pads available for a hand paint correction job. It's not just any foam pad, but a foam pad for every kind of paint correction/compound you're using.
Product Link that explains the product: http://www.autogeek.net/ccs-foam-hand-applicators.html
You can now purchase this in India: http://www.bringingbest.com/Coming_Soon__.html

b. Ultimate German applicator: This applicator pad is good for finishing/cleaner polish and for final step polishing [using a glaze or sealant]. It's different from the Euro CCS pads as it's got 2 different foam surfaces to a single pad. White side for cleaner/finishing polish and Red side for final sealant or wax application.
Product link: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/ultimate-german-applicator/prod_280.html

c. Sonus SFX Pro Applicators: This is an applicator pad similar to ultimate german applicator. Got 2 different foam surfaces to the pad. Yellow side is for polishing mild imperfections with rubbing compound and grey side for applying final sealant or wax.
Product link: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/sonus-sfx-pro-applicators-pkg/2/prod_31.html

2. Rubbing Compounds

a. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound: This is the Ultimate stuff for clearing out mild swirls and hair line scratches. It works brilliantly and is an enthusiast product [which is also used by professionals]. The advise in the car surface detailing industry, by the experts, is that we should move from least abrasive product to the most abrasive product, to get the job done. That, in my opinion, makes a lot of sense.
Product Link: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/meguiars-ultimate-compound/prod_554.html
You can purchase this product in India: http://www.bringingbest.com/New_Products_II.html

b. Meguiar's #105 Ultra Cut Compound: The rubbing compound the professionals and advance enthusiasts use for completely treating a car for paint correction. Using this product, one can be guaranteed that along with the right tool and technique, ALL the swirls and hair line scratches WILL GO AWAY and you're car can be swirl/hair line scratch defect free.
Product Link: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/meguiars-105-ultra-cut-compound-8oz/prod_822.html

c. 3M Perfect-It 3000 Rubbing Compound: This compound from 3M is again good for heavy paint correction and oxidization removal. This is 3M's equivalent of Meguiar's #105.
You'll find that this is the correction compound that is used by even the professional guys at 3M Car Care Centers in cities like Pune, Bangalore, Chandighar, etc.
Product Link: http://www.autogeek.net/3m-rubbing-compound-16oz.html

d. Menzerna Power Gloss Compound S34A: Menzerna is a top class German product. What is interesting for you to know is that this product is used at the factory level to clear factory fresh paint imperfections and turn up that gloss to blinding levels, by companies such as Mercedez Benz and General Motors.
Product Link: http://www.autofresh.in/index.php/brands/menzerna/1-ltr.html

3. Cleaner/Finishing Polishes

a. Meguiar's #205 Ultra Finishing Polish: This is the finishing polish to use as a follow up, after compounding with Meguiar's #105 Ultra Cut compound. Produces a swirl free and high shine finish.
Product Link: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/meguiars-205-ultra-finishing-polish-8oz/prod_823.html

b. 3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish: This is a fine grade polish and again, needs to be used as a follow up to the 3M compound you might have used, 3M Perfect-It 3000 Rubbing Compound.
Product Link: http://www.autogeek.net/3m-swirl-remover.html

c. Menzerna Super Finish (Nano) PO 106 FA: For a high gloss and mirror shine, you can put your trust on Menzerna. This polish is a follow up to the Menzerna compound, the Menzerna Power Gloss Compound S34A.
Product Link: http://www.autofresh.in/index.php/brands/menzerna/1-ltr-5.html

* For high gloss and mirror like shine, you can also use this [has no cut, perfect for polishing].
Menzerna Final Finish (PO 85RD) - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/menzerna-1-litre/prod_224.html

4. Microfiber Buffing towels

a. Cobra Microfibers: They're the best microfiber money can buy. They're made in Korea [top manufacturers of microfiber]. There are various microfibers from Cobra, but you'll need one which is fluffy. That means, one which has maximum microfiber density [and as a result, thickness and weight]. For ex: if a cobra microfiber states it's weight is 380g/m², then that means that each square meter of this particular microfiber towel weighs 380 grams. For buffing, ideal microfiber to use is between 380g/m² and 600g/m².
Link to buy: http://www.bringingbest.com/Brand_Name_Microfibers.html

5. Automotive Masking Tape

If you're tying out paint correction for the first time, don't you think it's imperative that you play it safe? I've learnt and want to tell you because I think it's wise, that whenever you're testing a rubbing compound or any abrasive product/solution, it's always good to first try doing a test spot/panel on your car. So in case it goes wrong or doesn't give the right result, you won't be expanding that error or poor result to the entire of the car.

Also, as I've learnt & mentioned above, it's always good to move from the least abrasive product to the most abrasive product, to get the job done. So if a particular product doesn't give you satisfactory result, you've limited that usage to only a particular test spot. You can then move to the next level of higher abrasive product and try the same or another test spot/panel with it, to see if the correction results improve.

When you've found the perfect compound or solution for your car, you can then apply that to the entire car's surface and paint correct it. Also, for such a tedious and muscle wrecking job such as paint correction by hand, you'd do well to split the car over small panels and parts using masking tape and go about it in a pace comfortable to you. Making tape also helps you demarcate areas on a panel and you'll know ones that have been completed and ones pending paint correction. Also the 'before and after' indication that a masking tape gives, is a good motivation to finish the car or at least the panel you've started with.

Masking tape is also required to mask and cover ALL your rubber beadings, plastic and rubber trims, glass, headlights, wheels, etc, so that the compound application doesn't extend to these trim areas and dull the trim. Remember, the compound is good ONLY for the PAINT surface but not [necessarily] for the other components of the car.

Product link: 1. http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/3m-high-performance-masking-tape-cat11.html
2. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessories/3m-3434-masking-tape/prod_79.html

Paint Correction by Hand - The Process

By now, you must have gotten a fair idea of how we should go about correcting paint flaws by hand. You've read really too much up until here, so instead of textually explaining how to perform the actual job, let me share this video I sourced from one of the detailing sites, which shows a product being applied by hand, using a foam pad applicator.

As you can see by watching the video, paint correction by hand is 'indeed possible'. But, very hard. And therein, lies the joy Wink

http://youtu.be/_u-QTCbOUW4

Another video to show you and give you confidence that paint correction CAN be done by hand - http://youtu.be/WpBZySGd93g

Some personal tips I'd like to share
a. Always go about applying your product in a horizontal or vertical action movement [as shown in the first video]. It's best to avoid applying the product in circles [creates a 0.xx% chance to re-instill swirls, which is what we want to remove].
b. Have patience and keep at it with commitment. Results might not show on your first swipe.
c. A product like Meguiar's uses SMAT [smart micro abrasives technology]. This means there are micro sized abrasives and them eating into the clear coat/paint next to the swirl or scratch might take time. RUB IT IN. Put some power to that pad and results will show.
d. Do one small panel or section of a panel at a time [even after choosing or deciding on the right product]. Don't get over ambitious as it will only lead to fatigue.
e. Remember you don't need to paint correct the entire car in a day. You can do it over a week too. But what is MOST important is that you ensure the surface is free of ALL dirt and contaminants. If your car sits outside or even covered, go ahead and clay it again if you're in doubt. Paint correcting a dusty or dirty car will only Compound the problem, not resolve it. Smile

Disclaimer: The products mentioned and product/purchase links recommended are only an indication of what products you could consider, to where you can read more about/find these products, to help get you started. I am in no way affiliated to any particular brand or intend to promote any particular retailer. I do not make any monetary or non-monetary gains by mentioning these products or purchase links.

** To be continued **
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 3:58 pm Post subject: Cleaning your Car - Part 4B

PART 4B
If you're the guy/girl with deep pockets and passion for maintaining your cherished ride is more important than spending whatever money, then this is the post for you. And I'm your best friend [lol]..

Paint correction by Tool
This is the easy way. Easiest way to guarantee results and quickly. To perfection. There are 2 different tools, I'm aware of, that can do the job of correction paint efficiently and to great results.

1. Random Orbital Polisher/Dual Action Polisher [for amateurs and professionals]
2. Rotary Polisher [for advanced enthusiasts and professionals ONLY].

My honest recommendation is that, unless anyone in this forum has been using and mastered handling of a Dual Action polisher, it's just wise to step away from any discussion on using a rotary. It's a tool for the experienced user of such tools and an inexperienced person could burn away and remove the paint even, by using a rotary. Since I have no theoretical or practical knowledge about a Rotary polisher, I'm not even going to attempt sharing any knowledge or gyan on it.

PRODUCTS

1. Random Orbital Polisher/Dual Action Polisher
2. Rubbing compound
3. Cleaner/Finishing polish
4. Buffing Microfiber towel/cloth
5. Good quality automotive masking tape
6. DA Buffing Pads
7. Buffing Pads cleaning solution/Pad care

1. Random Orbital Polisher/Dual Action Polisher

a. FLEX XC 3401 VRG: This is the mother of all Dual Action polishers in the world. Flex is to power tools what Mercedez Benz is to the automotive world [you get the drift]. This is THE BEST DA tool money can buy, for a polishing job, anywhere in the world. Period. Also, the Flex XC 3401 works on a 'forced rotation' action, which will give the user 'Rotary like' performance and finish.
Product Link: http://flex-tools.de/gb/Produkte/Polierer/XC_3401_VRG/index.php

To quote member Eurogloss from www.detailingworld.co.uk, "Mercedes Benz use the the Flex XC 3401 VRG on their assembly line to achieve that glossy finish on all their motor cars".

If you are interested in reading, here's a link to a comprehensive review of the Flex 3401 VRG Dual Action polisher tool by a member of www.detailingworld.co.uk forum: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=67113

b. Meguiar's G220V2 Polisher: This is the most trusted and best entry level DA polisher you can find in India and that money can buy. This is also a good tool for the beginner, compared to Flex XC 3401 [only because the Flex 3401 is more powerful and new users will find that the flex will 'run around' and be 'jumpy', because it's more powerful and needs a little experience to hold it down].
Product Link: http://www.meguiars.co.in/g220offer

There are other Dual Action/Random Orbital machines you can find in India and abroad which will [and also will not] work on our power system, but their easy availability and warranty clause applicability for India can be questionable. I've only mentioned these 2 products because they're available in India with warranty, bill and are manufactured to work with the Indian power supply system.

From my previous article 4A above, you can read the points 2. to 5. as the content are the same for polishing by tool, too.

6. DA Buffing Pads
Just like you need to use a foam applicator to apply and work the compound into the car's surface by hand, similarly buffing pads need to be used with the DA tool, to work the compound into the paint. Right? A company called Lake Country manufacturing, is the leader of making such buffing pads, specially for Dual Action Polishers and Rotary Polishers.

Product Link: http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/products/index.cfm/catid/2/foam-pads
Link to learn more about pads and where you can buy them from: http://www.autogeek.net/lakecountry.html

As of now, I'm not going to write stories about which pads to choose. Simple logic is to limit pad size to 6.5" for any tool. When you do need to buy pads, please ask me and I'll guide you.

Best pads for any tool: CCS Foam Pads, Flat Foam Pads, Hydro Tech Pads.

7. Buffing Pads cleaning solution/Pad care

The rubbing compound or sealant or waxes that you apply to the pads, are essentially chemicals. Some of them are water based and some petroleum distillates based. As you can guess, even when you're working or done working with the pads, they will be saturated with the compound or product you've used on them. Also, these pads are re-usable. They are not a one-time-use only product. But as you can see, when done with the correction job or sealant application job, you just shouldn't remove the pad from the backing plate of the DA polisher and stash them away. The products that are used on the pads reside inside the foam structure and start to cake up, as they dry. To prevent this from happening and the pads hardening [and eventually breaking off], the residue needs to be cleaned off the pads. And the pads should be cared for. Only then will be perform to their best on your next correction or weekend gloss job.

Products such as those on the links I'm sharing below, are used to Clean and maintain the buffing pads. The information on the links are self explanatory as to why we need to clean the pads and care for them, but if you need any more information, please do not hesitate to ask me.

PAD Cleaners
a. http://www.autogeek.net/dp730.html [The best]
b. http://www.autogeek.net/snappytool.html
c. http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-pad-cleaner.html

PAD Conditioners
http://www.autogeek.net/xmt--pad-conditioner.html

Some suggestions for Pad Care from the makers of the buffing pads.
http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/products/foam-pad-care/

Paint Correction by Tool - The Process

If you've understood how paint correction by hand is done, then this is only easier to understand. And you might have already. Again, instead of textually explaining how to use a Dual Action polisher, I'm going to share a good video from my resource, which explains very easily and very simple to understand.

Video 1: http://youtu.be/Po39KcVjbLQ
In this video, you can see how easy it is to use a DA polisher to get super results and in the short time that it takes. You can also see how effective the Ultimate Compound product is.

Video 2: http://youtu.be/onfKkTWrYT4
This video is a demo of the Flex XC 3401 VRG tool.

I don't intend to reinvent the wheel and explain how a Dual Action polisher works. Instead, I'm sharing this wonderful article written by a member on www.detailingworld.co.uk forum, whose done an absolutely wonderful job of the explanation. But as always, if you have any questions on a DA polisher usage, shoot me [the question]..

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859

Well, I've pretty much covered what I wanted to in this article and suppose that this information is good for anyone who wants to start using a DA polisher for paint correction. Also know that the tool is not a Waste once you've corrected the paint of your car. You can still use the polisher on weekends to up that gloss and shine. Even waxes can be applied with the tool. The benefits of owning a tool are enormous.

** To be continued **
_________________
Peace precedes Prosperity..

saneetjay · Newbie Joined: 03 Jan 2012 Posts: 31 Location: Delhi

Hi Ajay,

I've not gone through very valuable post of yours..I'm still in the process of reading it all.

I heard that Colinite's insulator Wax 845 is perfect as it creates a layer and protects it from damage from light scratches.

Any feedback if you know about this .....

-Sanjay

k_ajay · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:18 am Post subject:

saneetjay · Newbie Joined: 03 Jan 2012 Posts: 31 Location: Delhi

k_ajay · Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:45 pm Post subject:

raghav2000 · Newbie Joined: 06 Sep 2013 Posts: 2

Gentlemen, i have read through the posts and must say that it is one of the most informative pieces of information i have ever read!!

the catch is that i am not a DIY person but a DIFM one. can someone please advise of some good car grooming centers in NOIDA ? It's been raining for some time and now that the sun is out (it did rain today too...but it's pretty much the end of the rainy season) i do want my ride to look in pristine condition. i am new to NOIDA hence the question. In the past I have been to various outlets in Bangalore but here in NOIDA i don't see any reputed names/been to some and they don't inspire much confidence